Original Delray speakeasy bar reborn as Radcliffe’s, with secret door, live jazz and ‘fowl’ cocktails and entrees

One of Delray Beach’s original Prohibition-era speakeasy bars has been reborn, and to gain admission, promoters say you must stalk the downtown alleyways in search of a distinctive blue door.

But all that sounds exhausting (and probably creepy), so we’ll just tell you: It’s called Radcliffe’s Speakeasy & Supper Club, and the not-so-secret door is located behind its acclaimed sister restaurant, The Wine Room Kitchen & Bar.

The dim cocktail den debuted in February with 16 craft libations, live jazz on Wednesdays through Saturdays and a higher-end suite of caviar service, prime steaks and bird-inspired entrees that are distinct from The Wine Room’s menu next door. At 1,000 square feet, its warm wood-paneled walls, red-brick accents and long bar hint at the space’s former life as the Arcade Tap Room.

In its heyday, the Arcade Tap Room played host to rumrunners, thirsty polo players, renowned cartoonists and golden-age Hollywood stars, from Gary Cooper and Gloria Swanson to Jim Raymond (“Blondie”) and Fontaine Fox (“Toonerville Trolley”).

And while general manager Mark DeAtley would like to take credit for reviving a hallowed drinking haunt, in truth, the idea had been simmering long before he took the job a year ago.

“We’d use it sometimes for overflow when The Wine Room got packed, but otherwise, it was hidden. No one knew it was there,” DeAtley says. “Me being hired was the catalyst to turn it into a full-blown speakeasy. Now it’s a secret, quiet, romantic and sexy space to enjoy food created by the same chef of The Wine Room.”

That chef is Blake Malatesta (MIA Kitchen and Bar, 50 Ocean), whose cheeky menu is inspired by the Radcliffe’s mascot — a monocled, bowler-hat wearing cartoon bird he describes as a “bougie chicken.”

There is Radcliffe’s Crown ($40), which are Frenched, slow-roasted chicken drumsticks with truffle whipped potato, arranged vertically on the plate, bones interlocked, like a rack of lamb. There is also caviar service by the bump ($26, served on the hand) or on a waffle ($50) with chive crème fraîche; an 8-ounce Australian lobster tail étouffée with garlic-scented wild rice ($67); a duck confit leg and thigh with goat cheese béchamel ($27); and “Bird of the Night” specials ranging from pheasant to quail lollipops (market price).

A note for first-timers: Although a single door separates The Wine Room from the 62-seat speakeasy, with few exceptions, customers sitting inside Radcliffe’s can’t order from The Wine Room’s separate food menu, and vice versa, DeAtley says.

And here’s another edict: “You can’t order cocktails from the speakeasy if you’re in The Wine Room, but a guest in the speakeasy can order wine from The Wine Room,” he adds.

Sheesh. And here we thought a speakeasy was all about breaking the rules.

Cocktails, created by bar manager Kate Watson, are likewise fowl-inspired. The Eagle Has Landed ($18) includes PiggyBack 6-year bourbon, Pama liqueur, lemon juice and mint, while the Raven ($16) features black charcoal-infused Wheatley Vodka, lime and demerara. Cats Who Eat Canary ($17) has Barr Hill Tom Cat gin, Campari, pineapple, lime juice, maple syrup and TajÍn tincture; and “Fizzy” Bird Bath ($20) is a blend of Conniption gin, citrus and lavender-infused air in a bathtub with a rubber duck.

Radcliffe’s Speakeasy & Supper Club is at 411 E. Atlantic Ave., Suite D, Delray Beach. Go to TheWineRoomOnline.com/Delray-Beach-The-Speakeasy or call 561-243-9463.